Tuesday, December 9, 2008
DAY 19.-IN A TENT ON A HILL NEAR ST. MALO
They say that red wine is best served at room temperature, but it doesn't help when your room/tent is colder than a fridge.I'd have to say that last night's bit of "fly-tenting"(pitching a tent where its illegal to do so) was possibly my best bit of fly-tenting ever. I thought it couldn't get any better than Iceland, when I set up camp by a lake full of icebergs at the end of a glacier. As I was cooking my dinner a bunch of seals swam over to see what I was doing. But last night's camp was just exceptional. Soon after the sun set, everyone cleared away and I cooked up dinner while 1 km in front of me stood the Mont St-Michel,one of the most amazing structures, I have ever seen.Maybe everyone had the right idea,when they cleared away, cause last night was very cold. I had to shake the frost off the tent this morning before I folded it away. I was just leaving Mont St-Michel as the first coaches were arriving and I made my way into the town of Pontorson to stock up on groceries. One thing I love in France is my daily visit into one of their patisseries. The French love their bread and so every village has a bakery and I'm already in the habit of getting a few of those "pain au chocolait" each morning.The other thing the French love is their wine, and when almost half the bottles in the supermarket are under a fiver, its hard to resist.I continued along the coastal road and around lunch time I arrived into Cancale. Considering this is supposed to be the oyster capital of France,I stopped in at a seaside restaurant and had a half dozen oysters and a bowl of mussels and a white wine for lunch. Its too hard to resist. If I'm really serious about this global tour, I'll be Uzbekistan in 6 months time eating mutton fat with grizzle sauce and a side order of weeds so I'll take it while I can. Leaving Cancale via a big hill, my next stop was Port Mer.I had hopped to fly-tent out here, but because it was a sunny Sunday,the area was full of French day-trippers. It would have been cool to set up the tent on the roof of a 1940's German bunker,but in the end I rode just 2kms up the road to a hill top and am peacefully camped up with some super sea views but already the chill is setting in. Its gonna be another cold night.